volvo

Volvo 780 Bertone Project Pt. 2 - Why buying another persons project is the WORST.

Well already 2 months have passed of 2021, and here I am writing an update on my 1987 780 whilst sitting at my cold garage desk. To say this project has gone way deeper than I expected would be an understatement, but it has been a great learning experience along the way. As usual with these “catch up” posts, I will start from the oldest photos I have and work my way up to the present. This allows me to try and cover in-depth what I am doing and why, as well as structure the narrative a bit better. Without any further rambling, lets begin.

Lots of the work on the car so far has been in the engine bay. As expected with a PRV, nothing is quite perfect, and getting replacement parts is no easy task. Many of the parts are standard Volvo and Bosch units, however things like the Fuel Pressure Regulator is a Bosch part shared with a few air-cooled Porsches of the era, making them impossible to find at a reasonable price.

An engine bay detail was in order to really give the car some new life, as well as increase my quality of life while I spent long hours wrenching away.

An engine bay detail was in order to really give the car some new life, as well as increase my quality of life while I spent long hours wrenching away.

Finally solving my rough running issues (which still somewhat persist now unfortunately), was a massive research undertaking. One piece I never checked originally was the cars air filter and MAF, a good place to start with any car suffering from performance issues. What I found was something I had never seen before.

Inside the filter housing.

Inside the filter housing.

The inside of the Bosch MAF

The inside of the Bosch MAF

Let me explain these two photos. At some point Ether was used to try to start the car. Well the resulting backfire from this process caused the air filter to light on fire, which then melted the plastic. This molten plastic, then was sucked through the MAF from the engines vacuum, which coated the inside of the MAF in plastic, completely destroying it. Not once have I ever seen something like this. Thankfully, I was able to source a good used MAF, and trim the melted plastic out of the air filter housing. One problem for the books.

Next I replaced the “thermotimer”, which is Volvos name for the coolant temp. sensor. The unit on the car was original, and most likely as to blame for some of the rough running issues.

Last piece was the fuel pressure regulator, which was leaking significant amounts of fuel into the engine bay as well as past its rubber diaphragm. The old gas in the tank was sucked out as it had expired many years ago, and fresh premium gasoline was added to the tank. The filter was not replaced, however I may do that as well.

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Moving on from the engine bay it was in order to clean up some pieces around the chassis that had been overlooked or improperly repaired by the previous owners. When the car was up on the lift it was easy to see that one of the sway bar end links had been damaged at some point, somehow resembling a “J” shape.

Vice grips were needed to prevent the rusted up end links from free spinning when removing the bolts.

Vice grips were needed to prevent the rusted up end links from free spinning when removing the bolts.

The drivers side vs. passenger side end links.

The drivers side vs. passenger side end links.

As you can see from the photos, these were most likely original as well. The bent side was obviously trash and missing the lower bushings as well. Installation of these is actually very straight forward, and doesn’t even use a ball joint like many modern cars. These simply are a threaded rod with 2 bushings on each end to sandwich the chassis and sway bar.

Small details like the gas door cap were also fixed. This one really upset me because of the way it was repaired. These fuel doors were used on many different model Volvos, and a rebuild kit from online suppliers like IPD cost about $10 for a new clip and spring. The previous owner of this car was very liberal with their use of butyl “dumdum” tape.

Rivets and butyl tape…completely unneeded.

Rivets and butyl tape…completely unneeded.

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The rivets and tape were carefully removed to not exacerbate the damage they had done any more. The area was then wiped down and I was able to snap the new hinge into place. Its the small details that can really add value and show that the car was properly cared for, not just thrown together. Its these small details that I always strive to fix and improve, especially on a car as rare and collectible as this.

Part 3 should be following this write up soon. I wanted to split this into a few sections as I have a whole writeup on the power seats planned. Lets just say, its not a pretty sight…

960 Project Pt. 4 - End of Spring Almost Summer Updates

Since my last update back in February, I have had a lot of changes happen in my life. I went from an office job, to working full time for a local Volvo shop. I now do the marketing and classic car & car parts sales for Hailey Import Service. Due to this, I have been busy but lots of mods have been happening to my 960. My last update I had done a few comfort modifications, but I have upgraded the car even further. The car got a new dash carpet, full steam clean (again), and some much better air fresheners to remove the old musty smell. Using the ozone generator followed by an order remover disk I was able to neutralize the mold smell caused by the water leaks in the car. A re-sealed sunroof has also helped reduce water entry into the car.

Over the past few months, I have been driving the car on an almost daily basis, slowly building up a trust in its reliability. I have been able to do 2 round trips to visit my family in Charleston, SC and the car had no hiccups from the 4 hour drive each way.

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Safety has also been improved with new lighting and taillights. I used LED upgrades in the lights and the difference was significant. Fahren LEDs were used for the headlights, and SNGL LEDs were used for the fog lights. Both kits were ordered with a 6600k color tone to give the car a clean white look up front.

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One of the major issues I have had with this car have been the abused cosmetics. The paint is in rough shape in a lot of locations around the car, and does show signs of a respray at some point. During a washing session, the power washer took the paint on the rear drivers door clean off revealing a white door underneath. Since then I have begun the process of using vinyl wrap to cover the worst affected panels on the car. Avery gloss black has been used due to its cheap price, as well as its very close color match to Volvo 019 black color code.

Side shot showing the painted drivers door vs. the wrapped rear door.

Side shot showing the painted drivers door vs. the wrapped rear door.

The hood before. Note the clear coat spots and “crows feet” marks.

The hood before. Note the clear coat spots and “crows feet” marks.

After, not 100% color accurate but much better.

After, not 100% color accurate but much better.

Other additions to the car have mostly been cosmetic. A set of used corner lights from the UK were imported. I have always liked the clean look of clear lights up front. The set cost me about $80 when all said and done. Expensive, but around the going rate for a set in the US. A bonus was that they came with the sockets for a single filament bulb instead of dual like ours require.

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