V70 R-Design

TFT Display with P3Tool Guide

Just writing that blog title filled me with a sense of dread. The TFT cluster swap is a topic so thoroughly discussed on the forums that I am scared to even open that can of worms on this website. Not only is it a slightly complicated mess, but often when I do write ups I try to be as technical and cover as much of the topic as possible meaning this could turn into a LONG post. So buckle up cause this is gonna be a nerdy one

Introduction

The TFT cluster swap is a common modification for the P3 chassis Volvos to update the original “watch face” style gauge cluster (also referred to as a DIM, or Drivers Information Module) to the facelifted digital style found in the 2014+ models. This applies to all P3 chassis cars like the V70, S80, XC70, XC60, and S60. The V60 is left off this list as it was only sold in the US from the 2014 MY onwards and as such already has the TFT display.

The digital cluster is preferred since it adds back in some information for the driver like engine temps, as well as offering different display themes (some of which can be modded and changed further with editing tools). Since it shares the same shell as the pre-facelift DIM, they are a near “plug and play” swap when it comes to physically installing it into the car.

These updated DIMs can often be found on eBay and now even in junkyards as these cars become older and sent to dismantlers.

Prerequisites, Parts, and Supplies

Before we start taking stuff apart and soldering wires, lets get all of the items we are going to need / use for this cluster swap.

Hardware

  • Windows PC laptop

  • Volvo DICE unit

  • Battery tender

  • 2014+ TFT Display (multiple part numbers available*)

  • 2 Volvo cluster pins (I took these from a P1 cluster, more on this later).

  • Soldering Iron

  • Torx Bits

  • Pick / Pinning Tool

  • 20 AWG Wire

  • (Optional) Replacement Instrument Panel Glass Lens (31376800)

Software

  • Cars CEM PIN Unlocked

  • Up to date DICE drivers

  • P3Tool w/ active license

And here is the part where I would have a well written and photographed step-by-step instructions on the rest of the process, however…

The Swap

I started working on this article in January of 2023, it is now mid August of 2023 and I have still to “finalize” this swap. That being said there are some updates now later in the year, and I do in fact have the cluster installed. In the August update of P3Tool Johnny added full functionality to do the TFT swap and even included tools to rewrite software on the TFT to better get them to work on various models. I did not end up taking photos of my process for the install, luckily this is a very well known process and there are multiple guides online you can follow to do the wiring and physical install of the cluster.

The TFT I refurbished is a V2 model, these can be identified by the additional venting on the rear.

The “V1” Model without venting

“V2” Model with Venting

“V3” Model only found in very late model XC60s

The TFTs got progressively better with the later model years, with slightly faster CPUs and slight quality of life updates. Any of these can be used as they are all the same size and use the same plug.

I followed all the instructions online for the hardware side of things, taping into the two wires from the ODB2 port, etc. Got the cluster installed and went to work in P3tool. This is where I will share how my install went and the changes I needed to make to ensure everything was working.

First we need to set some parameters, these are in parameter number order so some may not be applicable or wanted for your install:

  1. P#013: Screen Skins

    • 0x04 = R-Design

  2. P#040: DIM Type

    • 0x02 = DIM Type Basic LED

  3. P#101: TPMS

    • 0x01 = Without TPMS

  4. P#112: Indirect TPMS

    • 0x01 = Without indirect TPMS

  5. P#247: Fueltank Sensors

    • 0x01 = Fueltank, 1 sensor

The DIM type change is required, along with the Indirect TPMS and Fuel Tank Sensors. I have TPMS disabled on my car since I am using wheels from a V90 without TPMS sensors in the valve stem. Some of the TFT clusters come from cars that do not use TPMS but rather iTPMS which measures the rolling diameter of the wheels to determine air pressure. I had a permanent TPMS light on the TFT until I switched parameter 112 off Undefined. Additionally the TFT uses data from parameter 247 which is 1 sensor for FWD, and 2 sensors for AWD. Without this, the fuel gauge will either not read or read improperly. (I am still working through testing this.)

Next, lets move over to the new P3 DIM tab in P3Tool.

Here we will begin to prep the old cluster for removal (they can function fine with all of these parameter changes made, and even the extra wires into the plug).

Here is the step by step instruction:

  1. Read Milage from original DIM

  2. Read EEPROM from original DIM

  3. Full Backup of original DIM

  4. Install new TFT DIM

  5. Full Backup of TFT DIM

  6. Select Fuel Tank Model (Select based on FWD or AWD)

  7. Select Model Year of your car

  8. Select Base Flash

  9. Click Write Flash

The DIM will go blank as the data is being written to it. Once it is done, it should light up with everything working. Make sure to reset the SRL and set the Time before unplugging as these can not be done without Sensus (in models without Sensus center screen).

Initially configured before fixing the fuel gauge.

Changing the fuel tank parameter.

The config and guide here should work for all 3.2 V70s in the US as they are all the same spec. Keep in mind this is just the first revision of the software so expect some hang ups. Always make sure to make backups and keep your original DIM handy as there are reported cases of some TFT clusters becoming corrupted during the flashing process.

Project Nashville Pt. 2 - Tech Talk

Alright I admit it, I am shamelessly stealing further blog posts names from M539 Restorations on Youtube. With the sheer amount of cars I go through, I think it at least adds a little personality as I am not one to name cars.This part two is only going to be for a few items as I am not extensively modifying this car outside of a few cosmetics, and I have gotten pretty bad at recording things I am doing.

Section 1 - Emissions

The first thing I wanted to cover was the nagging CEL that seems to be playing hide and seek with me. The code being thrown is a P430 code which signifies that the bank 2 catalytic converter is below efficiency. In simple terms, the filter is letting too much fuel by and the O2 sensor is picking that up. This has no effect on driveability, however will set a Check Engine Light thanks to the EPA…

On the 3.2 motor the converters are a known failure point, however with such low milage the idea of dropping $2,000 on a new converter is not ideal. So before going all out, I decided to do some digging and check all the systems that could cause the code. I also checked the diagnostic readouts in VIDA (which we will get into later). The first items I replaced were the PCV box as well as the sensor for bank 2 sensor 2.

The oil trap on this car was original from when it left the factory and was still stamped with its 2009 build date. Usually at this age they begin to deteriorate and really recommended to be replaced at the 100,000 mile mark which this car is very much passed. A faully failed unit will make a distinct whistling noise due to the rubber diaphragm inside going. A decently old one such as this can be clogged and will effect fuel trims leading to the code I was seeing. Thankfully replacing these are decently easy, while not being a walk in the park either, located on the top of the motor they are much easier to access compared to the old whiteblocks. A few extensions and swivel sockets were needed to reach the back bolts, and much care was taken to not drop any down into the abyss.

Following this was the installation of a new O2 sensor. While I wish i had photos of this process I unfortunately had to pay a shop to replace it as my sockets and wrenches just could not break free the 10 year old+ threads. I went with an OEM Bosch sensor, one as a precaution and secondly due to some off readings I was getting from the original. Before replacing the sensor was flatlining at 0v randomly, I believed that this reading was causing the code to be thrown as it was not a reoccurring code, oly showing up every ~800 miles. Below are the readings are post sensor install. Not great as you can see the readings are still fluctuating indicating that the cat may still be bad.

The black is Bank 2 Sensor 2 Voltage (the bad cat), purple is Bank 1 Sensor 2, and the two others are the front O2 sensors.

Since these two items were installed (and the ECM parameters reset), I have driven about ~700 miles without issues. We shall see if the code returns. if it does, the next steps will an O2 sensor with built in mini-cat. If this does occur, i will make sure to have a seperate write up on fighting these stupid 3.2 emissions systems.

Section 2 - Cosmetics

If you have followed this blog, you’ll know I am a big proponent of LEDs, especially on these eastly P3s as they make the car look much more modern. Most of the kits I receive I buy off Amazon or AliExpress, links will be provided for each item.

License Plate Lights

Ease of install: 10

Two bolts and about 5 minutes is all you’ll need for these. Slots directly into where the originals were, gives a much cleaner look!

Before and after, LED vs standard filament bulbs.

Looks very clean with the upper LED tail lamp modification done by the PO.

Interior Lighting

Ease of install: 9

This kit came with lighting for all the interior bits and bobs. Some I have not installed yet like the visor mirror lamps or the glovebox, but they all fit without issue all around the car and make it much easier to see at night when digging through the car.

Puddle Lamps

Ease of install: 6

Not a fan of installing these, only due to the fact that getting the stock lamps out is a huge pain. The plastic become brittle and stiff over time so of course it broke trying to get it out. Luckily its no big issues as the replacement goes in easily, however I like to save the original equipment in case something happens to the aftermarket units.

Once installed they cast a nice white LED light, and illuminate much better than stock. Gives the car a clean look all around when on.

Well thats all for this installation. I was hoping to have also gotten some convex mirror glass, but the ones I ordered from China were not the right size. Sad. Hope everyone enjoys, I have a cool box of stuff from VPARTS coming soon as well, so stay tuned for that!

And I Would Drive 500 Miles - Project Nashville Pt. 1

Alexa….play Im Gonna Be by the Proclaimers

This is how I felt last weekend, perpetually on the road. To announce my new addition to the growing list of Volvos I have owned, let me set the stage.

Saturday. Wake up at 5am. Try to find a Lyft to the airport. Live in the middle of nowhere so none are available. Drive 960 to the daily parking deck. Sit in CLT terminal E for 2 hours. Fly to Nashville. Land, test drive car. Purchase car. Drive 7 hours back to Statesville. (I40W was closed for some god forsaken reason). Get home. Realize gear for the NASCAR race the next day is still in my 960 which is at the airport. Take Lyft to the airport. Pickup 960, drive back to Statesville (AGAIN). Go to sleep around 1130.

Got all that? Great.

Now I can finally show you all the car I picked up.

Thanks David for the photo.

(Doug Demuro Voice) THIS…. is a 2010 Volvo V70 R-Design, one of the rarest cars Volvo has sold in North America. Only sold for the 2010 model year, the running number is about 380 of these cars exist in the entire country. Or at least that was the number the time of production, current numbers will be lower due to some being wrecked or scrapped.

After dealing with stiff, sporty sedans I finally said enough as enough, I need a new wagon so that my poor old 960 wont have to be a daily driver anymore. I initially started looking for standard V70s, not as hard of a find due to them being sold from 08-10. Immediately I realized that finding one without a gross tan interior was going to require some searching. Due to their age, they seem to be in a mix of buy-here pay-here lots and private sales which also means a lot of them have little to no service history or any redeeming factors to justify their often obscene asking prices. Slowly losing hope that I would be able to find a proper replacement to my almost new Giulia I put out a feeler on Swedespeed, just to see if there were listings in the country I might have missed. After that I waited.

A few messages came in here and there. Mostly links to autotrader for cars I had already seen and inquired about. I was quickly realizing that buying a car from a dealer or scumbag car lot was not going to make any sense financially.

I gave up on my search and quickly hoped to looking at some XC70s. One had caught my eye in NJ and I booked a flight to go see it. To my dismay, it was in appallingly bad condition for its age, and the Audi dealer selling would not budge on price. I walked from the deal, and found myself headed back to my buddies place to book a flight for the next day to fly home. As luck would have it, thats when I received a phone call from David. He had messaged me on Swedespeed about his V70 he was thinking of selling. A white, former CPO V70 R-Design that had lived its whole life in the south. The timing couldn’t have been better, it was fate.

Flew out, did some time test driving up in the Smokies, paid and was on my way. This car has nicely extensive service history with lots of records on scheduled service plus other nice items like newer headlamps that really set the car off.

Driving the car home went without a hitch, even with the long drive the car did great. My only gripe is that I am not a huge fan of the currently installed Pirelli tires, I believe they are inferior in ride quality, noise and handling compared to Michelin Pilot Sports+ which I will most likely install later this year due to the current tires being from early 2018.

So far modification wise I have tried to stay relatively OEM+ with the exception being sequential style turn signals in the mirrors from VPARTS in Sweden. I am not sure if I like the look or not, but they were super easy to install. I may end up going back to the stock corner lamps with an LED installed or switch to black caps as I like to keep the look as OEM as possible.

Stock.

Volvo V70 P3 fas2 blinker mod aftermarket vparts blinker flasher

VPARTS.se Aftermarket

Additionally I did a R-Design dead pedal (did the same mod on my S60 back in the day), along with LED headlights and fog lights. The CEM was cracked with VDASH to add better headlight controls as the stock North American configuration is awful.

The car on the tender overnight while VDASH cracks the CEM, the process was started around 6PM and finished around 1am.

I think my only letdown with these early P3 cars is that they do not offer the same options that the later 2012+ models did like easily added remote start, or global window control with the key. I believe this is due to the early P3s using a 5 button PCC key instead of 6 as they are missing the “data” button used for those options.

The car already has an IPD sway bar and end links, and I plan on ordering the metal skidplate as it makes oil changes much easier and adds a level of protection for a lowered car.

As a side note, for audio I used a TUNAI Firefly LDAC BT to AUX adapter as the car only comes with AUX and USB for audio, Bluetooth for calls only. I am very impressed with this adapter and the sound system of the High Performance Sound in the V70 is exceptional, and as good as the Premium Sound I remember from my S60. The cable fits perfectly out of the way and connects as seamlessly as a built in bluetooth system. (If not faster and better than my Alfa Romeos stock system).

Under the garage lights after its first post trip wash. I also did a full glass regiment as well as decent clean of the interior and leather treatment. Some additional carpet shampooing will be needed for some stubborn sections, and a touchup pen is next on my order list.

The city and corner marker lamps were replaced with Sylvania 194 LEDs. The corner lamps were decently easy to access, with the center city lights being very hard to access requiring the use of a few picks and other long tools.

The full LED conversion give the car a much fresher and modern look, while also aiding in visibility.

With all the LEDs installed, all that is left is to order some Michelin Pilot Sport 4s from my friends up at Hailey Import Service. In part two, I will be installing the optional R design front bumper grille accessory as well as headlight eyelids both from VPARTS. Additionally I will install the more modern shifter like was done in my S60 a few years back, along with LED interior lighting and LED license plate lighting.

Links for all the products I use: