Project Nashville Pt. 2 - Tech Talk

Alright I admit it, I am shamelessly stealing further blog posts names from M539 Restorations on Youtube. With the sheer amount of cars I go through, I think it at least adds a little personality as I am not one to name cars.This part two is only going to be for a few items as I am not extensively modifying this car outside of a few cosmetics, and I have gotten pretty bad at recording things I am doing.

Section 1 - Emissions

The first thing I wanted to cover was the nagging CEL that seems to be playing hide and seek with me. The code being thrown is a P430 code which signifies that the bank 2 catalytic converter is below efficiency. In simple terms, the filter is letting too much fuel by and the O2 sensor is picking that up. This has no effect on driveability, however will set a Check Engine Light thanks to the EPA…

On the 3.2 motor the converters are a known failure point, however with such low milage the idea of dropping $2,000 on a new converter is not ideal. So before going all out, I decided to do some digging and check all the systems that could cause the code. I also checked the diagnostic readouts in VIDA (which we will get into later). The first items I replaced were the PCV box as well as the sensor for bank 2 sensor 2.

The oil trap on this car was original from when it left the factory and was still stamped with its 2009 build date. Usually at this age they begin to deteriorate and really recommended to be replaced at the 100,000 mile mark which this car is very much passed. A faully failed unit will make a distinct whistling noise due to the rubber diaphragm inside going. A decently old one such as this can be clogged and will effect fuel trims leading to the code I was seeing. Thankfully replacing these are decently easy, while not being a walk in the park either, located on the top of the motor they are much easier to access compared to the old whiteblocks. A few extensions and swivel sockets were needed to reach the back bolts, and much care was taken to not drop any down into the abyss.

Following this was the installation of a new O2 sensor. While I wish i had photos of this process I unfortunately had to pay a shop to replace it as my sockets and wrenches just could not break free the 10 year old+ threads. I went with an OEM Bosch sensor, one as a precaution and secondly due to some off readings I was getting from the original. Before replacing the sensor was flatlining at 0v randomly, I believed that this reading was causing the code to be thrown as it was not a reoccurring code, oly showing up every ~800 miles. Below are the readings are post sensor install. Not great as you can see the readings are still fluctuating indicating that the cat may still be bad.

The black is Bank 2 Sensor 2 Voltage (the bad cat), purple is Bank 1 Sensor 2, and the two others are the front O2 sensors.

Since these two items were installed (and the ECM parameters reset), I have driven about ~700 miles without issues. We shall see if the code returns. if it does, the next steps will an O2 sensor with built in mini-cat. If this does occur, i will make sure to have a seperate write up on fighting these stupid 3.2 emissions systems.

Section 2 - Cosmetics

If you have followed this blog, you’ll know I am a big proponent of LEDs, especially on these eastly P3s as they make the car look much more modern. Most of the kits I receive I buy off Amazon or AliExpress, links will be provided for each item.

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License Plate Lights

Ease of install: 10

Two bolts and about 5 minutes is all you’ll need for these. Slots directly into where the originals were, gives a much cleaner look!

Before and after, LED vs standard filament bulbs.

Looks very clean with the upper LED tail lamp modification done by the PO.

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Interior Lighting

Ease of install: 9

This kit came with lighting for all the interior bits and bobs. Some I have not installed yet like the visor mirror lamps or the glovebox, but they all fit without issue all around the car and make it much easier to see at night when digging through the car.

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Puddle Lamps

Ease of install: 6

Not a fan of installing these, only due to the fact that getting the stock lamps out is a huge pain. The plastic become brittle and stiff over time so of course it broke trying to get it out. Luckily its no big issues as the replacement goes in easily, however I like to save the original equipment in case something happens to the aftermarket units.

Once installed they cast a nice white LED light, and illuminate much better than stock. Gives the car a clean look all around when on.

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Well thats all for this installation. I was hoping to have also gotten some convex mirror glass, but the ones I ordered from China were not the right size. Sad. Hope everyone enjoys, I have a cool box of stuff from VPARTS coming soon as well, so stay tuned for that!

And I Would Drive 500 Miles - Project Nashville Pt. 1

Alexa….play Im Gonna Be by the Proclaimers

This is how I felt last weekend, perpetually on the road. To announce my new addition to the growing list of Volvos I have owned, let me set the stage.

Saturday. Wake up at 5am. Try to find a Lyft to the airport. Live in the middle of nowhere so none are available. Drive 960 to the daily parking deck. Sit in CLT terminal E for 2 hours. Fly to Nashville. Land, test drive car. Purchase car. Drive 7 hours back to Statesville. (I40W was closed for some god forsaken reason). Get home. Realize gear for the NASCAR race the next day is still in my 960 which is at the airport. Take Lyft to the airport. Pickup 960, drive back to Statesville (AGAIN). Go to sleep around 1130.

Got all that? Great.

Now I can finally show you all the car I picked up.

Thanks David for the photo.

(Doug Demuro Voice) THIS…. is a 2010 Volvo V70 R-Design, one of the rarest cars Volvo has sold in North America. Only sold for the 2010 model year, the running number is about 380 of these cars exist in the entire country. Or at least that was the number the time of production, current numbers will be lower due to some being wrecked or scrapped.

After dealing with stiff, sporty sedans I finally said enough as enough, I need a new wagon so that my poor old 960 wont have to be a daily driver anymore. I initially started looking for standard V70s, not as hard of a find due to them being sold from 08-10. Immediately I realized that finding one without a gross tan interior was going to require some searching. Due to their age, they seem to be in a mix of buy-here pay-here lots and private sales which also means a lot of them have little to no service history or any redeeming factors to justify their often obscene asking prices. Slowly losing hope that I would be able to find a proper replacement to my almost new Giulia I put out a feeler on Swedespeed, just to see if there were listings in the country I might have missed. After that I waited.

A few messages came in here and there. Mostly links to autotrader for cars I had already seen and inquired about. I was quickly realizing that buying a car from a dealer or scumbag car lot was not going to make any sense financially.

I gave up on my search and quickly hoped to looking at some XC70s. One had caught my eye in NJ and I booked a flight to go see it. To my dismay, it was in appallingly bad condition for its age, and the Audi dealer selling would not budge on price. I walked from the deal, and found myself headed back to my buddies place to book a flight for the next day to fly home. As luck would have it, thats when I received a phone call from David. He had messaged me on Swedespeed about his V70 he was thinking of selling. A white, former CPO V70 R-Design that had lived its whole life in the south. The timing couldn’t have been better, it was fate.

Flew out, did some time test driving up in the Smokies, paid and was on my way. This car has nicely extensive service history with lots of records on scheduled service plus other nice items like newer headlamps that really set the car off.

Driving the car home went without a hitch, even with the long drive the car did great. My only gripe is that I am not a huge fan of the currently installed Pirelli tires, I believe they are inferior in ride quality, noise and handling compared to Michelin Pilot Sports+ which I will most likely install later this year due to the current tires being from early 2018.

So far modification wise I have tried to stay relatively OEM+ with the exception being sequential style turn signals in the mirrors from VPARTS in Sweden. I am not sure if I like the look or not, but they were super easy to install. I may end up going back to the stock corner lamps with an LED installed or switch to black caps as I like to keep the look as OEM as possible.

Stock.

VPARTS.se Aftermarket

Additionally I did a R-Design dead pedal (did the same mod on my S60 back in the day), along with LED headlights and fog lights. The CEM was cracked with VDASH to add better headlight controls as the stock North American configuration is awful.

The car on the tender overnight while VDASH cracks the CEM, the process was started around 6PM and finished around 1am.

I think my only letdown with these early P3 cars is that they do not offer the same options that the later 2012+ models did like easily added remote start, or global window control with the key. I believe this is due to the early P3s using a 5 button PCC key instead of 6 as they are missing the “data” button used for those options.

The car already has an IPD sway bar and end links, and I plan on ordering the metal skidplate as it makes oil changes much easier and adds a level of protection for a lowered car.

As a side note, for audio I used a TUNAI Firefly LDAC BT to AUX adapter as the car only comes with AUX and USB for audio, Bluetooth for calls only. I am very impressed with this adapter and the sound system of the High Performance Sound in the V70 is exceptional, and as good as the Premium Sound I remember from my S60. The cable fits perfectly out of the way and connects as seamlessly as a built in bluetooth system. (If not faster and better than my Alfa Romeos stock system).

Under the garage lights after its first post trip wash. I also did a full glass regiment as well as decent clean of the interior and leather treatment. Some additional carpet shampooing will be needed for some stubborn sections, and a touchup pen is next on my order list.

The city and corner marker lamps were replaced with Sylvania 194 LEDs. The corner lamps were decently easy to access, with the center city lights being very hard to access requiring the use of a few picks and other long tools.

The full LED conversion give the car a much fresher and modern look, while also aiding in visibility.

With all the LEDs installed, all that is left is to order some Michelin Pilot Sport 4s from my friends up at Hailey Import Service. In part two, I will be installing the optional R design front bumper grille accessory as well as headlight eyelids both from VPARTS. Additionally I will install the more modern shifter like was done in my S60 a few years back, along with LED interior lighting and LED license plate lighting.

Links for all the products I use:

• LED H8/H9/H11 Headlights and Foglights

• LED City Lights (White)

• LED Corner Markers (Orange)

• LED VPARTS Sequential Style Mirror Lights

• OEM Style R-Design Dead Pedal

On life, cars, and business.

Life has happened.

My last post here was over 9 months ago. For a small update, the 960 is done, and has been for some time. A few other small projects have happened in the meantime, and some cars have come and gone.

In December of 2021, life gave me a major reset. I didnt want it, but it happened and I am now in a much better place because of it. The lease on my house was ending, and my time in Greensboro was coming to an end. It was time for me to move on from my position at Haileys and start my search for a new job to get me back on track for a full time career. In the interim I moved down to Charleston, SC with my parents. I lost my girlfriend over this whole series of events too, stating the distance would never work. Everything I had to comfort me, everything that was my daily routine was gone.

This business, my business, something that started off as a hobby, kept me motivated. This buisness gave me a reason to get out of bed in the morning when I felt like I had no other use. In truth, I didnt have much of a use other than walking the dog or doing some stuff around the house. For the past 2 months I spent my time trying to make it the best it could be. Finally I could focus on it full time and see how sucessful it could really be with 100% of my dedication behind it. NordCarolina LLC is an official business in South Carolina. Taxes and all.

I got to explore some cool places during this time, learned a lot of new spots to check, and met some interesting people along the way. Even my parents helped, clearing out some space in the garage for me to work and keep my car. Took it day by day and tried my best.

Now, I am back on track. NordCarolina has become my secondary work again. I recently began my position at SRI Performance as a Marketing Specialist. I am now based out of Mooresville, and spend most of my weekends at or around racing. Its just the start, but it feels like part of a bigger picture.

Hopefully soon once my life begins to settle into more of a regular routine, I can pick back up on my posts here. I have a lot of big plans for the 960, some of which may never happen now that I do not have access to a shop or big garage anymore. But never the less, I am always tinkering and finding new things to show the world. (Or well maybe the 3 people who read these blog posts). Keep an eye out, I have a cool youtube video in the works that ties into a product on the site that some may enjoy. Hell, maybe now I will finally get around to finishing the sunroof delete post.

2022, new job, new house, new life, same old shitty Volvos.

Volvo 960 Project Pt. 6 - Still Alive

As usually, my writings tend to drop off during the spring into the early summer. The weather is nicer, things are happening and with the full removal of any travel and event restrictions, my time on weekends isnt spent sitting at a desk all day. Actually, that’s a lie but I am still busy! God knows how much Volvo stuff has been going on since my last post back in March, but it has been a lot. Progress on the 780 has been slow / stalled out. I have lost a lot of motivation in working on it, and just have been waiting for a few small pieces to tie it all together and get it ready for sale. In the mean time, I have started a project on the 960 that I never thought I would have the ability to do… fully deleting the sunroof.

This topic has been, shall we say sensitive, to many of my European friends across the internet as they believe that a sunroof is the peak of luxury. “How could you do this, and why?!” they say. I said, with an angle grinder.

But all joking aside this was a project a long time coming, as the sunroof in my 960 had been leaking for some time. Even after resealing the glass and the drains, I was still getting significant water intrusion into the car. The roof and headliner were a few things I never really showed off in the car, or always tried to hide in photos. Much of the panels were either damaged, peeling, ripped, etc. I wanted to redo the interior, but it would have been a moot point if it was just going to get damaged by water again.

The headliner was severely damaged from water, and had warped entirely.

Like anything, the best way to start was jumping right in. I started by removing almost all the interior panels from the door panels up. Much of the tan fabric interior had signs of water damage as it was peeling away from the brittle plastic backing. The headliner, which had been sagging for some time, was in a state when removed. The cardboard like material was falling apart, and signs of mold were beginning to show.

I also collected all the pieces I was going to need for the interior. Thankfully, a 940 wagon interior was just what I needed. The panels are identical to the 960, but lack the fabric covering, make them very easy to work with and paint. I was also able to get the new headliner from said 940, which did not have the hole from the sunroof. Lets just say, driving with a spare headliner inside a car of the same size, isnt very fun.

The panels laid out in the sun for drying.

For this project I grabbed the A, B, and C pillar panels, all of which were painted with a coat of Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric Coating, gloss black. This was also used on the headliner as well. it adhered very well to the panels after they were quickly wiped down and cleaned before paint. Using the sun, they dried almost instantly. All of the small interior pieces also received a quick spray like the mirror cover trim, grab handles, and screw covers.

After removing the interior assembly of the sunroof, it was time to sink the teeth in. This was easily the hardest part of the process, not because of the very slow grinding, but also because I wasnt quite sure how I should be doing it. The sunroof is supported inside the roof by an extra cage that is welded into the roof structure and has the roof skin folded down into it. The metal would need to be removed to make room for the new headliner, so cutting was a must. The first corner was rough, however I slowly started to get a feel for how the metal was shaped and where to cut to make pulling the supports out easy.

DONT BE LIKE ME, COVER YOUR WINDOWS AND PANELS BEFORE GRINDING OR WELDING!

With the supports out, I had reached the first ‘checkpoint’ of the project. However, seeing the big hole in the roof was certainly not very fun. It looked awful, all jagged and bent up. I wondered to myself if it was ever going to turn out the way I wanted.

With the roof out it was time to start devising the plan on how it would all go back together. The sunroof support cage also functioned as the cross member support for the roof skin. Without it the roof is very flexible and tends to bend and distort with any sort of pressure or high winds. A new cross support was needed.

Reusing the old metal seemed to be the best method as the bracket had already been designed to follow the curve of the roof, and sit exactly on the inner roof rails.

With the cross rigidity solved, next was getting a roof panel and designing that to work. However, with how long this post has already become. I will be saving the rest of the write up for part 2. There is a lot more done over what has been pictured, and 90% of what will be in part 2 I already have done. But for my sake, lets keep this one under 2 pages.

Volvo 780 Bertone Project Pt. 2 - Why buying another persons project is the WORST.

Well already 2 months have passed of 2021, and here I am writing an update on my 1987 780 whilst sitting at my cold garage desk. To say this project has gone way deeper than I expected would be an understatement, but it has been a great learning experience along the way. As usual with these “catch up” posts, I will start from the oldest photos I have and work my way up to the present. This allows me to try and cover in-depth what I am doing and why, as well as structure the narrative a bit better. Without any further rambling, lets begin.

Lots of the work on the car so far has been in the engine bay. As expected with a PRV, nothing is quite perfect, and getting replacement parts is no easy task. Many of the parts are standard Volvo and Bosch units, however things like the Fuel Pressure Regulator is a Bosch part shared with a few air-cooled Porsches of the era, making them impossible to find at a reasonable price.

An engine bay detail was in order to really give the car some new life, as well as increase my quality of life while I spent long hours wrenching away.

Finally solving my rough running issues (which still somewhat persist now unfortunately), was a massive research undertaking. One piece I never checked originally was the cars air filter and MAF, a good place to start with any car suffering from performance issues. What I found was something I had never seen before.

Inside the filter housing.

The inside of the Bosch MAF

Let me explain these two photos. At some point Ether was used to try to start the car. Well the resulting backfire from this process caused the air filter to light on fire, which then melted the plastic. This molten plastic, then was sucked through the MAF from the engines vacuum, which coated the inside of the MAF in plastic, completely destroying it. Not once have I ever seen something like this. Thankfully, I was able to source a good used MAF, and trim the melted plastic out of the air filter housing. One problem for the books.

Next I replaced the “thermotimer”, which is Volvos name for the coolant temp. sensor. The unit on the car was original, and most likely as to blame for some of the rough running issues.

Last piece was the fuel pressure regulator, which was leaking significant amounts of fuel into the engine bay as well as past its rubber diaphragm. The old gas in the tank was sucked out as it had expired many years ago, and fresh premium gasoline was added to the tank. The filter was not replaced, however I may do that as well.

Moving on from the engine bay it was in order to clean up some pieces around the chassis that had been overlooked or improperly repaired by the previous owners. When the car was up on the lift it was easy to see that one of the sway bar end links had been damaged at some point, somehow resembling a “J” shape.

Vice grips were needed to prevent the rusted up end links from free spinning when removing the bolts.

The drivers side vs. passenger side end links.

As you can see from the photos, these were most likely original as well. The bent side was obviously trash and missing the lower bushings as well. Installation of these is actually very straight forward, and doesn’t even use a ball joint like many modern cars. These simply are a threaded rod with 2 bushings on each end to sandwich the chassis and sway bar.

Small details like the gas door cap were also fixed. This one really upset me because of the way it was repaired. These fuel doors were used on many different model Volvos, and a rebuild kit from online suppliers like IPD cost about $10 for a new clip and spring. The previous owner of this car was very liberal with their use of butyl “dumdum” tape.

Rivets and butyl tape…completely unneeded.

The rivets and tape were carefully removed to not exacerbate the damage they had done any more. The area was then wiped down and I was able to snap the new hinge into place. Its the small details that can really add value and show that the car was properly cared for, not just thrown together. Its these small details that I always strive to fix and improve, especially on a car as rare and collectible as this.

Part 3 should be following this write up soon. I wanted to split this into a few sections as I have a whole writeup on the power seats planned. Lets just say, its not a pretty sight…